When a Maytag dishwasher throws an error code, it almost always means the same thing: the cycle stopped mid-way and the machine wants you to know why. These codes are generated by the control board — they’re the machine talking to you, if you know how to listen. Most of them you can narrow down yourself before you call anyone.

Here’s the complete breakdown — no fluff, no generic filler.

The Error Codes, Explained

The codes below cover most Maytag models (including JennAir, Amana, and Inglis sold in Canada — same board, different badge). If you see a code not listed here, check your specific model’s tech sheet (usually taped to the side of the tub inside).

F1 or E1 — Water Inlet Problem

What it looks like: The dishwasher fills for 10–15 seconds, then stops and throws F1. Or it doesn’t fill at all.

Most common cause: The water inlet valve screens (yes, there’s a screen) get clogged with sediment over time. In Vancouver especially, the mineral content in our water supply does this on units older than 3–4 years. Second most common: the inlet valve coil itself fails electrically — and when it goes, it usually goes completely.

What to try: Shut off the water supply, disconnect the inlet hose, and pull the screen out of the valve (it’s a small brass filter). Clean it under running water with a toothbrush. If that doesn’t fix it, the valve needs replacing — about a $45–80 part, 20-minute job for a tech.

F2 or E2 — Drain Problem

What it looks like: F2 usually shows up at the end of a wash cycle when the machine tries to drain. Water sits in the bottom of the tub.

Most common cause: Something blocking the drain pump — most often a broken glass shard, a pistachio shell, or food debris wound around the chopper blade. Yes, there’s a chopper blade. It gets dull or jams. Second cause: the drain hose is kinked or the air gap (if you have one) is clogged.

What to try: Pull the bottom rack out, remove the filter assembly (twist and lift), and check the drain area for debris. If you hear a grinding noise when the machine tries to drain, the pump is seized or partially blocked — you’ll need to pull the pump cover (it’s hand-tight, then quarter-turn) and clear it. Wear gloves — there will be standing water and possibly broken glass.

F3 or E3 — Heating Element Fault

What it looks like: The dishes come out foggy and wet, and F3 shows up partway through the main wash. Soap hasn’t dissolved.

Most common cause: The heating element itself has failed — either the coil is burned out or the hi-limit thermostat (a small safety switch on the element) has tripped. On older units, corrosion at the element terminals is a frequent culprit. On newer boards, the control board sometimes falsely reports this when the wax motor or a relay fails.

What to try: Set a multimeter to continuity mode and check the element terminals — you should see 15–30 ohms across them. If it reads OL (open loop), the element is done. If the element tests fine, it’s likely the control board. Board repair on Maytag is usually not worth it — replacement boards run $150–250 and require programming.

F4 or E4 — Temperature Sensor / Thermistor Issue

What it looks like: F4 typically appears during the wash or rinse cycle. The water temperature seems off — not heating enough, or overheating.

Most common cause: The thermistor (the little glass bead sensor clipped to the inlet side of the tub) has drifted out of spec. Its resistance changes with temperature, and if it reads wrong, the board doesn’t know when to heat. On most Maytag boards, this is a 10K ohm sensor at room temperature.

What to try: Unplug the thermistor from the board and check resistance with a multimeter. Room temperature (20–25°C) should read roughly 10K ohms. If it’s way off — 0 ohms or infinity — replace it. Part runs about $18–35. This is one of the easier fixes.

F5 or E5 — Door Latch Problem

What it looks like: The cycle won’t start at all, or it starts then stops the moment the door seal releases. F5.

Most common cause: The door latch assembly is the #1 failure point on Maytag dishwashers — it’s a plastic mechanism under constant use. The switch inside fatigues over about 3–5 years of daily use. Also common: the door gasket (the rubber seal) is providing enough resistance that the latch has to work harder than it should.

What to try: Close the door firmly — really firmly — and see if F5 goes away. If it does intermittently, the latch mechanism is worn. You can temporarily bypass the door switch by pressing the switch manually with a screwdriver while starting a cycle (don’t do this permanently — it’s a safety interlock for a reason). Replace the latch assembly: about $35–55.

F6 or F7 — Flow Meter or Water Supply Issue

What it looks like: F6 or F7 appears during the fill cycle. The tub doesn’t fill enough, or fills too slowly.

Most common cause: The flow meter (a small turbine in the inlet valve body that counts water flow) fails or gets stuck. On Whirlpool/Maytag/JennAir platforms (which share the same engineering), F6 usually means the flow meter lost signal. F7 often points to the same issue but triggered by the pressure sensor reading an abnormal fill curve.

What to try: This is a hard one to diagnose without pulling the dishwasher out and checking the inlet valve assembly. If you’re comfortable pulling the kick plate and checking the valve connector, good. Otherwise, call a pro — it’s a $130–200 service call on this one.

The Five Problems We See Most Often (Beyond Error Codes)

1. Foggy / Cloudy Dishes

Not an error code, but the #1 complaint. Usually one of three things: (1) water isn’t heating — check F3 above; (2) rinse aid is empty or the dispenser is clogged — easy visual check inside the door; (3) hard water deposits — white film on dishes even after cleaning. If it’s hard water, a vinegar rinse (1 cup white vinegar in an empty top rack, run a hot cycle) usually clears it.

2. Standing Water at the Bottom

Most people assume it’s a drain issue — and sometimes it is. But also check: is the air gap (that little chrome cylinder next to your faucet) clear? Food debris builds up there. Run the sink — if the dishwasher backs up when the sink drains, the connection at the garbage disposal or drain line is blocked. If water sits fresh after a cycle, it’s a drain pump issue (F2).

3. Weird Noise Mid-Cycle

A grinding noise is usually something in the drain pump (see F2). A humming noise that continues for the whole cycle without water circulating usually means the circulation motor died — that’s a $200–350 part depending on the model. A periodic clicking from the door area is the wax motor or detergent dispenser — usually fine to run as-is for a while.

4. Detergent Cup Doesn’t Open

The soap dispenser is driven by a small wax motor that pushes the cup open once. If the cup stays closed and you find wet soap at the end of every cycle, the wax motor is dead. Also check: is the tab blocking the cup from closing fully? Sometimes a dish or utensil leaning against the door blocks the mechanism. Wax motor replacement is a 15-minute fix once you have the part ($18–30).

5. Door Leaking

If water pools at the door lip, 90% of the time it’s the door gasket — usually torn at the bottom corner where it gets squashed against the rack rollers every cycle. Less common: the door spring clip or corner screws have corroded, changing the door’s closing angle. A new gasket is $25–45; a corner hinge kit runs another $30–50. Both are doable DIY if you’re careful.

When to Call a Pro Instead

You can fix F1, F2, F4, and F5 yourself with basic tools and patience. These are not complicated jobs. The ones that aren’t worth your time:

• F3 (heating element) — requires draining the system and testing, and parts cost is low enough that a call-out is reasonable if you’re not comfortable with multimeters.
• F6/F7 (flow meter / pressure sensor) — requires pulling the dishwasher out and disassembly most homeowners shouldn’t attempt.
• Control board issues — if the board is throwing random codes across the board, or codes persist after replacing the suspected part, it’s the board. Don’t keep replacing sensors hoping it goes away.
• anything involving the tub interior — if you see a cracked tub or signs of water damage inside, call us before it gets worse.

What This Costs at Evo

If you need a hand, here’s what we charge for the common Maytag calls:

Prices are labour + part estimates for Metro Vancouver. Final quote given on-site after inspection. We charge $89 to diagnose — that amount is credited toward any repair we complete.

How to Book

Call or text (604) 200-3054, or book online at evoappliances.ca. We cover all of Metro Vancouver — most calls same-day or next-day. We show up with the parts most common for your model, so we’re usually done in one visit.

Have a model number ready? It’s usually on a sticker on the tub wall inside the door, or on the door frame when you pull the bottom rack out. Knowing your model number cuts our prep time significantly — we can pull the right parts before we arrive.

Not sure what’s wrong? Describe what you’re seeing — the code, what happened, what model — and we’ll walk you through whether it’s a DIY or a call-out.